I didn’t want to include this side trip with the prior
Munich post because I think it deserves to stand on its own. While we were in Munich, we took the train out to visit
Dachau, the memorial site at the first concentration camp built in 1933. We
weren’t sure if we were going to go at all. I knew it was important to include
educational outings, even if they were difficult or somber. But I have to
confess that I didn’t want to spend time at the site and then just head back to town
to drink, shop, dance, etc... I knew it would require time to settle. So we debated whether we would have time, and
ultimately decided to make the trip out the last day.
Oz, the tour guide from our first day in Munich, had shared
with us a little bit of Munich’s perspective on World War 2. I am a big nerd
and love history, so it was really interesting to hear the “other side of the
story” if you will. I thought it was really interesting that he didn’t avoid
the topic or make any excuses for what happened in Munich’s history. It was really helpful to have this new
perspective before heading out to the memorial.
The memorial site is actually on the grounds of the former
concentration camp, so when you enter the memorial, you walk along the path and
through the gate where the “prisoners” entered, and directly into the roll call
area. It was incredibly eerie. And it was such a beautiful day, so the
dichotomy between the beautiful, sunny sky and somber environment was
incredibly poignant and haunting.
{gate at the entrance: "work sets you free"} |
There
is a museum that clearly laid out the history of the Nazi party, World War 2,
and Dachau itself. It had articles,
artifacts, pictures, and testimonies from prisoners, and a short documentary
about the concentration camp with some of the most graphic footage I’ve seen…
definitely not what we saw in our suburban high school history classes. Outside
of the museum, there were restored barracks to show the living conditions, part
of the original fencing, and a chilling memorial statue. You could even walk
through the crematorium, which had been turned into a gas chamber. The chambers
at Dachau were fortunately never put into operation, but they are still
standing. It was so haunting, and the sense of atrocity still lingers.
{chilling memorial built in 1968} |
{the camp fencing with an SS watch tower} |
I think it is really incredible that they restored the
actual site into a memorial. The site was funded by the government, but planned
by a committee of surviving prisoners. I really appreciate how open and honest
the memorial, and even our tour guide, was about what happened in Munich
leading up to and during the war. It seemed like the people really embraced
their history in order to move forward and not suffer the same fate again. And
even though it was incredibly somber, it was a truly beautiful tribute.
We left Munich very quietly and pensively, but I’m so glad
we went. I’m so grateful that I got to experience so much of the fun Bavarian
culture, but also got the chance to educate myself on a very real (and still
pretty recent) part of history.
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